Necessary equipment

- 1 kit Retro-Emulation
- 1 Rapsberry pi3 B+
- 1 Fan 40x40x7mm
- 1 Micro switch 12mm
- 1 Radiators lot
- 1 Extension USB double
- 1 LED withe
- 1 Switch


During an expedition to the rubbish, I came across one of the first models of Playstation (SCPH-1001) in a dirty state. Sad end for this console ...? I do not think so, it's time to give it a second life.

I know that Frakasss loves PS1, that it already has some original, but no reconditioned. In addition I already spotted a nice mod of PS1 on the net: Retro-Emulation offers a kit of components that contains all the electronic part. I only have to print in 3D the different media available on Thingiverse, assemble everything and it's good!

A quick and simple project!


/!\ Error /!\

I forgot to make a project for Frakasss is to shoot himself in the foot!
Frakasss do not like the general appearance of the console with the kit made ... It wants the same aspect as the real one, with the USB ports camouflaged in similar jacks PS1 handles and that the facade resumes the holes of memory cards'.
I try vaguely to reason with him, knowing perfectly well that it is lost lost ... After all it is not quite wrong, it will make nice a nice facade as on the real one. And then remake some changes on an existing project will not cost me too much time; the project remains simple.

/!\ Error /!\

And here it is that extends the list ...
'The reset button will be functional eh? I can do a reboot by pressing?
Euh... But what will you use for what?
'I do not know, to do like the original. And in the hood that will open, you can put me USB ports for players 3 and 4?'
But ... None of the PS1 repackaging projects I've seen have the hood function!
'I trust, surprise me!'
Shit ... It's more than a simple project that ...

/!\ Fatal Error /!\

After the first printing tests, I realize that the 3D parts proposed in the kit are not compatible with my version of PS1 (SCPH-1001) ...
I am made like a rat.

[i] Reboot [i]

So, we tried to improve the initial concept:
-we keep the opening of the cover to incorporate some useful functions.
- we keep all the features of the original buttons
- we try to get closer to the aesthetics of the front of the PS1 (memory card slots and original grips)

Comprehensive list of components

In 3 orders on the Internet, I have everything I need: the complete kit of components, the double USB extension and the Raspberry PI3B +. Here is the contents of the kit :

- RJ-45 extension cable 0,3m
- micro SD crad extension cable 0,25m
- 3,5mm audio extension cable 0,3m
- 4x USB 3.0 extension cable 0,3m
- HDMI extension cable 0,3m
- DC power jack 5,5/2,1mm
- Switch
- 5mm LED, Color green/yellow
- Circuit board
- USB-A socket
- Rotatable potentiometer 100 Ohm
- Rotatable potentiometer 5kOhm
- 2,2µF capacitor
- 3-Pole connector
- 1m H05V-K 0,5mm² black
- 1m H05V-K 0,5mm² red
- micro USB cable
- Screws.


Preparation of the shell

I empty the console completely, and I cut the tab on the right side (see Photo).
I do the same for the 3 legs of the CD player of the upper shell, being careful to cut only the upper part.
In what remains of the legs, I drill holes with a forest of 2mm.


3D printed parts

I'm designing a new 3D parts package that fits the SCPH-1001 perfectly.
I take this opportunity to make some improvements especially at the level of bindings that I find a little limited.
The electronic part already ordered, I adapt all my parts to these components.

The fact that the hood opens requires me to design a cover to replace the console CD player.
The shape of the hole is a little complicated to reproduce visibly, I improvise a technique a little barbaric but has the advantage of walking: I draw the contours on a paper, I color the interior of this form and I scan it. Once imported into the 3D modeling tool, I add the various elements requested by Frakasss:
- location for both USB ports
- six slots for micro-SD cards (he wants to separate his game systems "an SD for PS games, an SD for N64 etc etc.")
- location for an LED and its switch (the SD cards are stored inside, the lighting will allow to choose his card in the dark)

I fix the housing with three screws 6x2mm to put in the drilled holes during the preparation of the hull.
I slightly trimmed the bottom of the big USB block of the double extension so that it does not touch the lower shell when I assemble the two shells. I then used cable ties to hold the cables together.



Button Open
It retains its function and the original mechanism. I have nothing to do on this side.

Button Power
The assembly is simple: the red button goes to the center of the support, the LED goes in front and the capacitor goes behind.
I weld the different elements paying attention to the polarity of the LED [Great paw: +]. No polarity for the capacitor
It's easy to follow the supplier's video instructions.

Button Reset
On the power button support, there is a second slot for the microswitch. I install it, and I weld two threads on it; they will go on Raspberry later.
The Reset button will work with a script available in the Recalbox.

Setting up
I finally put the support in its place, in the lower shell of the console.


Raspberry Pi and wiring

I screw the raspberry on its support and I put the set in the lower shell.
After a passage in painting, I take the different supports and I insert the cables that I then fix on the lower shell.


PCB power supply

The PCB supplied with the Kit is top because it is equipped with variable resistors, you can easily control the power of the LEDs and the speed of ventilation.
The assembly is simple with the video instructions.


LED and Switch of box

I install the switch on the housing and I solder a red wire on one of its legs.
I weld the other end of the red wire to the plus (+) on the power supply PCB (slot reserved for the fan).

I install the LED in the hole provided in the housing.
I'm welding a red wire on the long plus (+) LED
I'm welding the other end of this wire on the second leg of the switch.

I solder a black wire to the short minus (-) side of the LED.
The other end of the black wire goes on the PCB, on slot minus (-) reserved for the fan.

To better locate the cables, I changed the colors: red becomes purple, black becomes blue.


Secure 3D print

Some media still move. I immobilize them with a glue gun.


Controllers slots

Once printed, I insert the two USB cables in the slots and then screw the plates behind.
I then fix them on the lower shell and I connect the USB cables to the Raspberry.



The fan fits into the double bracket that holds both the PCB and the fan. The airflow passes through the console. It cooled in passing the variable resistors and the Raspberry PI 3B +. The air finally comes out through the side vents.
The console is perfectly ventilated.



I use a maximum of cable ties to make the cables stand together.
The lack of space implies a perfect organization; everything must be in order and in its place.



The PlayStation is functional. I present it to Frakasss and he love it!
All the challenges have been met:

- Make the Reset button functional
- Keep the opening button of the functional cover
- Concealing the hole of the CDrom player and exploit the space under the hood
- Properly ventilate the Raspberry PI 3B +
- Manage the space correctly so as not to interfere with the different mechanisms

The management of space was not an obvious step, in the different 'Mod' PlayStation available on the net, the 'Hood' and the 'Reset' button were simply condemned. We carefully studied the layout of the various elements so as not to interfere with the opening and closing mechanisms of the console. I think we did it!


STL Files :

As usual, I put the .STL files in the section SETTINGS.

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