Neo Geo X
Neo Geo X

Necessary equipment


- 1 Extension RJ45
- 1 Rapsberry pi3 B+
- 1 Fan 40x40x7mm
- 1 Micro switch 12mm
- 1 Lot de radiators
- 1 Slot micro SD female
- 1 Connector DC 4mmX1.7mm
- 1 Cale FLAT HDMI 90° <=> MINI USB female
- 1 Cable micro SD 20 awg
- 1 variable resistance
 

Presentation


The Neo Geo .... is THE mythical console that everyone dreamed one day to have in his living room! A rather failed reedition was made a few years ago with a rather nice concept: A portable console that can be inserted in a box almost identical to the original, to play on his TV with sticks! Unfortunately, the fans were disappointed by the emulation that is far from successful and the overall quality of the product rather low.

Everything is not negative in this story because little clever people had the idea to integrate a Raspberry in the plastic case, we then exploits the full potential of the console with two USB sticks, Great!

Neo Geo X



Project

There is a simple 'MOD' of the Neo Geo X which is to use the case to integrate a Raspberry PI. Just buy a cable that connects the PI to the original connector of the console, without changing anything, the TOP what!

Except that in reality, we quickly come up against some complications:

The heat

The Raspberry pi has very little space, it is locked in the box without vents, the air does not circulate, which quickly causes problems of overheating. Some use a fan directly positioned above the processor, but the air is still hot ...

USB port

The cable connects to one of the USB ports of the Raspberry, which forces us to position the PI at the bottom of the case, where the height is the lowest, the lid thus presses it and it is not great.

Power supply

It takes a 5v 3a power supply to operate the PI 3 properly, so it is necessary to choose a quality model and replace the micro USB connector with a DC connector 4mm X 1.7mm to use the home connection. That's not all ! The wire used for the internal wiring of the box and the poor quality of the cable provided are that on arrival, we do not have 5V but 4.80 at the terminals of the Raspberry, the small flash of 'undernourishment' appears at the screen ...

RJ45 Port

To take advantage of NetPlay, we are advised to be connected 'by cable', the wifi is prohibited. Out, there is no place to slide an RJ45 except perhaps leaving the hood open ..

In short, it is time to optimize all that ! I will do everything to try to correct these problems!



3D print parts

So I designed new parts that will fit into the console to improve airflow inside the case and fix the Raspberry properly.

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The holes

The first step is to make 'holes' in the box to integrate the ventilation system and maintenance of the Raspberry. For this, we must first remove the case by removing all the screws below, it will be necessary to remove the skates to find those hiding below.

Then you have to take the templates that I made and position them correctly as in the photos, they will help me to create orifices to measure, so the pieces will fit perfectly.

To make the holes, keep the templates in place and trace the center shape with a fine tip felt, then drill holes in the 4 corners with a suitable drill bit.

Cut out the shape with the dremel or the cutting pliers.

We must now check that each piece fits perfectly, if everything is OK, we can stick them to the strong glue.

Once everything is glued, we can slide the 4 clips around the cylinders on which the Raspberry will be screwed.

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Raspberry Pi and cable USB

I will start by correcting the problem of the USB port and the cable that take up too much space.

For that, I will create a cable that will be soldered directly on the pins of one of the USB ports under the Raspberry, the other end will be soldered on a micro SD female connector, so I could position the PI as high as possible in the case because nothing will interfere at the end.

This cable has the function of recovering the USB ports of the case (in which the USB joysticks will be plugged) until the Raspberry

Hop, a problem solved!

 
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Ventilation

To circulate the air inside the console, nothing better than a fan!

I weld and pull 2 wires from the + and - of the USB board of the case following the contours, like the original wiring, to reach the top right corner of the bottom shell.

I drill a hole in the top of the box (tjs in the corner, as in the photos) in which I pass the original wire of the fan, I cut the connector of it which will not be used.

To adjust the airflow and reduce the noise of the fan, I use a variable resistor that I stick cleanly in the right angle, so as not to interfere with the upper shell when reassembling it.

I then weld the wire + of my fan to + the variable resistor and then solder the wire - on the mass of the console power board.

I must now adjust the airflow of the fan, for that, I put a sony PSP power on the console and using my screwdriver, I turn on the adjustment screw on the variable resistance until satisfaction. I specify that the fan will be in a position that will allow it to extract the air.

 
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Power supply cable

I said a little earlier that the voltage across the Raspberry was not 5v but 4.80v, certainly because of the losses due to the quality and the number of strands of the 2 cables. It is therefore necessary to adopt another method.

The original jack connector for the video output will not help me, so I decided to delete it to make room for the power cable to power the Raspberry.

I weld and pull a second line from the + and - of the USB board of the case (as for the fan), except that I use 20 AWG quality cable with a micro USB connector at the end, it will only serve to feed the Raspberry.

 
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Port RJ45

To integrate an RJ45 port to the console, I cut properly a rectangle in the shell, slightly smaller dimensions than the RJ45 port of Raspberry and I drill a well-centered hole of 5.5mm, in the back.

I take and cut my extension RJ45 so as to keep a dozen cm in length, I pass the cable in the hole and stripped it to make visible the wires that are inside.

I then take a RJ45 crimp connector, put the wires in order of color and crimp the connector.

I then put my RJ45 cable to the Raspberry pi.

 
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Assembly of elements

I put the micro sd cable for the power supply on the Raspberry and I fixed it, on the 4 fixing studs with screws 6X2mm.

I fit the upper and lower hulls together being careful not to pinch the different cables and I put the screws back.

I put the micro sd 'female' cable (the one that is soldered to the Raspberry) in that of the console 'male'.

I then put the HDMI <=> mini HDMI cable between the Pi and the console.

I put and fix my fan on the support with 4 short screws and I come back, pushing with a clamp, the surplus of wire in the hole.

I add thicker pads under the console to raise it a little so that the air passes more easily.

That's it, everything is in place, the console is ready!

 
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Power supply

I take my food quality and I cut the micro SD connector at the end.

I stripped the wires and soda respecting the polarities on my connector DC 4 X 1.7mm.

My power supply is ready too, it's time to do some tests!

 
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'BONUS' Power OFF-ON

After a long, short night's sleep (joke), an idea came to mind: Use the MENU button to turn the console on or off.

A little thought ... and I design a support that fits into the mounting bracket of the Raspberry, (paw at the bottom right). It contains a microswitch positioned just below the axis controlled by the menu button, on which I sold 2 wires related to GPIO 3 and Ground Pi.

I now go into the .conf of my Recalbox to activate the script allowing the power OFF and ON.

When you press this button, the console turns on or off, it's quite convenient!

 
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Result

I put ON the power, I press 'ON', the fan turns, the Raspberry works, I see the logo Recalbox appear on my TV. I can navigate the menus, so my USB cable <=> micro sd homemade works!

The internal temperature is 46 ° C, the flash of under-power has disappeared, the pi is perfectly fed! (controlled at 5,10v). I then put my RJ45 cable, perfect I have the net!

I now test my power off button, it works perfectly!

So I can say that all the problems have been solved!

 
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My Neo Geo is operational for long hours of netplay, in good conditions! As at the good time ...

 
Neo Geo X


STL files :

Do you want to make your Neo Geo X? I put the .STL files in the section SETTINGS.

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